When most people think of Morocco, they imagine mezze foods, hammam baths and busy souks filled with spices, colorful trinkets and argan oil.
In reality, the north African country has so much more to offer, if you’re willing to look beyond traditional holiday spots like Marrakech and Fez.
Off the beaten track, alongside the Atlantic Coast, you’ll find a small, quiet town known as El Jadida, which offers a far more authentic experience.
It still has influences from the days when it was a Portuguese colony, including its biggest attraction, the Citadel – a fortress, cistern and trading port – which is recognised as a NESCO World Heritage Site, and it’s still a bit rough around the edges.
After exploring the historic site, swing by one of the many markets and you’ll be equally amazed and shocked; chickens are openly slaughtered by local butchers (it’s not a pretty nor hygienic sight) while old women sell khobz (Moroccan bread) in small stalls by the street and people haggle over fresh fruits and vegetables.
If you don’t fancy food – or the chicken situation has put you off – pop into the Souk el Hamra, an evening market where you can buy everything from rugs to leather bags (they’re everywhere), shoes and local fashion.
Just don’t be surprised if there’s no one around during prayer time; the people here trust each other, and will simply put a few chairs in front of their stall to signify that they’ve headed off to pray.
Everyone’s friendly, but do dare to haggle prices down and dress appropriately to avoid any stares (cover your chest, shoulders and knees).
El Jadida is a treat, but most travellers only come here for a day tour, before heading back to Mazagan – the luxury beach resort located just half an hour away – which is something of a small city on its own (it’s also where we stayed).
It has 11 restaurants, an 18-hole golf course, a spa, several pools and the largest casino – with excellent tequila, I might add – in Morocco. The real treat however, is the 7km stretch of private beach.
It’s so vast, it never fills up with people, especially if you come during the off-season. I walked along El Haouzia every morning during my stay, and it’s possibly one of the most serene experiences I’ve had on any trip.
Barring a few people riding horses early in the morning (also an option if you’re staying at the resort), there’s nothing but you, the sand and the ocean. Go for a morning dip, but beware of the current.
If you don’t mind a trek, walk towards the end of the strip where you can find the remnants of a ship that went aground in the late 80s.
If you’d rather lazy about on a sun lounger or grab a cocktail, there’s a restaurant and a beach club at your disposal.
I decided to skip the drinks and instead go quad biking through the sand dunes, before stopping by and saying hi to the resort’s camels (top tip: they will give you a smooch, so watch out for the drool).
Where to eat
Unfortunately, because we visited during Ramadan, there were next to no places open in El Jadida town during our visit, but La Capitainerie, located inside the fortress, has a beautiful sun-drenched terrace and is well-known for its cuisine.
As for what to eat, the answer is easy: seafood (after all, you’re on the coast) – drop into Mazagan’s Sel de Mer or beach club for a treat from the ocean.
La Cave, the french bistro, was my personal favourite. The pâté must be had, but the real treat is the wine cellar, filled to the brim with Moroccan wines – ask your waiter to choose one.
I also enjoyed a traditional Iftar – the evening meal that Muslims have at sunset during Ramadan – which included, well, pretty much everything: BBQ meats, rice, mezze, dips and two tables filled with desserts.
The foodie delights were accompanied by music from a local band.
The resort is nothing short of magnificent, but if you’re anything like me – where luxury can soon turn into boredom – organise a day trip to nearby Casablanca.
I lucked out with my driver; we took a detour on the way so he could show me his neighbourhood, an area known as Azemmour. His street consisted of nothing more than a few beige buildings surrounded by dry ground that looked as if it was begging for a spot of rain, but go a bit further and you’ll find a 16th century fortress.
In stark contrast to the opulence of Mazagan, this was an insight into the real Morocco, and it’s also where many of the resort’s staff live.
Casablanca, I’m afraid to say, was a bitter disappointment (and not just because I found out the movie was filmed in a studio).
The city is split in two; with the Old Medina and the New Medina. There’s plenty to see, including the Royal Palace, the impressive Hassan II mosque – the largest mosque in Africa and the third largest mosque in the world, and it’s also home to one of Africa’s biggest shopping malls.
The reason for my less-than-enjoyable experience was likely due to the fact that I arrived in the day – there was nearly no one around and nothing was open (once again, Ramadan).
While we were stuck in traffic, I was also warned by my driver that it was not safe for me to walk to the Old Medina on my own and as someone who enjoys solo travels, this felt disconcerting.
I didn’t heed the warning, and though nothing happened, I felt very uncomfortable (despite the fact I was completely covered, barring the lower part of my arms, my ankles and my neck).
As a whole, Casablanca still has a lot to offer and is worth a visit, especially for the Habous Quarter, traditional hammam baths and various souks.
Personally, however, I felt relieved when we returned to the calmness and serenity of El Jadida and Mazagan.
Where to stay and how to get there
Where to stay
Most people who visit El Jadida stay at Mazagan. The resort, which is owned by Kerzner International, is well-known in the area, partly because of its impressive golf course, designed by South African golfer, Gary Player.
You don’t need to be a guest at the hotel to visit; many people come to gamble at the casino (where you can smoke inside), have dinner or visit the spa. It’s so popular you have to book it in advance.
It’s pricey, but worth it; I tried the traditional hammam massage, which involved sitting in a super hot sauna for a few minutes, before being scrubbed down head-to-toe (everything except the vagina) and lying on a slab before being rubbed and scrubbed some more. It’s actually very soothing, and your skin will look amazing afterwards.
I stayed in an ocean view room. Prices fluctuate depending on when you visit, but as an example, a week in June could cost you around over £1,400 per person for this type of room, while the Royal Suite will be up towards £10,000 or more for the same period.
How to get there
We flew with Air Maroc.
If you like to have a pre-holiday tipple on the plane, you can’t – it’s a dry flight. Thankfully, there are other options if booze is a must such as British Airways, Iberica and Air Italiano.
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source https://metro.co.uk/2019/10/19/avoid-moroccan-tourist-traps-like-marrakech-head-coastal-town-el-jadida-9522946/
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